Last weekend, I tagged along on the establishment of a must-do climbing route in upper Garnet Canyon, as Hans Johnstone strolled up a splitter 4-pitch route on the north side of the Middle Teton.
The route already existed, having been established as a 5.9 A4 aid route by Royal Robbins in 1961, and it even had a name, “Taylor” — the last name of his female partner, Jane. (When’s the last time somebody took a date aid climbing in the Tetons?) There was no sign of passage since then. However, it may have been aid climbed another time by Pete Cleveland subsequent to Robbins’s ascent.
We got a new-school alpine start. “Maybe we should have left the car before 6:30 a.m.,” I said, basking in the sun flooding the upper canyon. “The route’s not that big,” replied Hans. “It’s mini-golf.” At the moraine, we stashed a pack then kicked toeholds up the snowless Middle Teton Glacier, the going tenuous in tennies. Gaining a ramp, we scrambled to a grassy nook in the middle of the 1,000-foot-high cliff. The first pitch off the grass was the trickiest — 5.11a with two cruxes, each conveniently coming when the cracks gave out, making protection marginal. “Keep on eye on me here,” said Hans, who waltzed right through. I’ll buy a round midday at Dornan’s the day I see that guy get Elvis Leg.
It was maybe a little late in the season for a high north face, and I climbed the whole thing in my puffy. But the sky all day was as unblemished as the wall, which followed cutter 5.10 fingercracks nearly to the top. On the final pitch, a sloping ledge and the range’s most exhilarating step-around move (”Here’s that exposure you’ve been dreaming of all day,” said Hans as he tiptoed around an awkward bulge that hung over the void) led to a Yosemite-style handcrack in a corner. And that was that. “Cool route, huh?” said Hans contentedly at the top. We coiled the ropes, stuffed the rack in the pack, then Hans led the way down the Middle’s North Ridge. Two routes new to me in one day. Sweet.
When I called from the summit, LMW said we ought to give the route a new name — “the Gonstone!” she said. Funny, but no. Nor is there any reason to replace one belay slave’s name for another, as suggested by Doug Workman. The route will continue to be called “Taylor.” And it should be climbed again soon. Watch out for a guillotine rock that hangs precariously over the top of the first pitch, and a few other loose plates and chockstones. On the whole, however, the rock is stellar and the high-altitude crack-climbing sublime. Just the thing for a Teutonic, laconic rope gun. Thanks for the tow, Hans.
Welcome to the Tetons, where 40-somethings continue to set the standard. Good job. Nice pics, show us some more.